Amp

Rotel RA-1000 service

Customer brought in a rather tatty looking Rotel RA-1000, clearly had a good life (think ‘ex-pub’), but had some issues, and wanted a longer mains lead fitting On testing, left channel no output, turned out to be a physically broken ALPS remote rotary switch, made of unobtainium, so had to effect a repair. Metal slider

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Alto TS112A Trusonic overheating

Customer states that this active speaker (part of a pair) was cutting out during performance and felt it was overheating. Despite the fan coming on, I was able to repeat the issue on the 1000W dummy load with a particularly bass-heavy piece of music driving fairly hard – the bass amp would cut out and

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Linn LK-1 preamp and LK-2 power amp full service

Customer said their LK-1 “wasn’t behaving right” (pops/clicks between channels) so asked me to take a look. Several faults found (including some not noticed/mentioned by customer) on preamp board, including dead BC212L transistor shorted in the MC input (LH channel dead/buzzing), a faulty analogue switch IC DG309CJ causing popping switching to/from tuner input amongst other

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Cary 300se Monoblock Amps

A friend reported intermittent issues with loud pops from one of speakers connected to his Cary 300SE monobloc setup. After some diagnosing swapping leads round to rule out the preamp, the issue stayed with one of the monoblocks. Suspected perhaps intermittent shorting of high voltage capacitor plates. Brought them over and found quite a number

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Naim Nait 3 Amp no power

A friend bought this amp but didn’t do anything when plugged in. Opened to find out the power board wire jumpers were cut from the preamp board inside. That would explain it. Apparently this is done so it can be powered externally from another device, and used just as a preamp, or split the preamp

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The Technics SU-3500 is back

Apparently the power switch got kicked/knocked by accident and now doesn’t work 🙁 Can’t get to it easily so it’s front panel off time again, 51 million screws and knobs! (The switch is secured to the chassis behind the panel with two screws) Oops 1: Oops 2: A rather hard to find lever switch (centre

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Technics SU-3500 powers up but no output

This lovely example of 70’s Japanese workmanship came in with no output. Turns out +57V and -57V rail rectifiers (double-diodes D501 and D502) one had gone short circuit, and taken out both 2.2 ohm R501/R502 1/8W fusible resistors. As these were now unobtainium (CO8P-1 and CO8P-1R) they were temporarily replaced with 1/8W and couple of

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